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`UNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT
`DISTRICT OF NEW JERSEY
`IN RE: FRAGRANCE DIRECT
`Case No. 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA
`PURCHASER ANTITRUST
`Jury Trial Demanded
`LITIGATION
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`DIRECT PURCHASERS’ CONSOLIDATED COMPLAINT
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`TABLE OF CONTENTS
`NATURE OF THE ACTION .................................................................................... 1
`JURISDICTION AND VENUE ................................................................................ 5
`PARTIES.................................................................................................................... 6
`A.
`Plaintiffs ................................................................................................ 6
`B. Defendants ............................................................................................. 7
`C. Agents and Co-Conspirators ............................................................... 14
`FACTUAL ALLEGATIONS .................................................................................. 14
`A.
`The Fragrance Industry ....................................................................... 14
`1.
`The Production of Fragrances ................................................... 16
`a.
`Upstream Suppliers ......................................................... 17
`b.
`Fragrance Ingredient and Compound Production .......... 18
`c.
`Downstream Customers .................................................. 23
`Defendants’ Fragrance Products Are Interchangeable ............. 24
`Defendants Supply Each Other with Fragrance
`Ingredients ................................................................................. 27
`The Structure and Characteristics of the Fragrance Market
`Support the Existence of a Conspiracy ............................................... 28
`The Market Is Highly Concentrated and the Defendants
`1.
`Are the Dominant Firms ........................................................... 28
`Defendants are Vertically Integrated ........................................ 34
`Barriers to Entry Are High ........................................................ 35
`The Buy-Side of Market Is Not Concentrated .......................... 38
`Demand for Fragrances Is Inelastic .......................................... 39
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`B.
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`2.
`3.
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`2.
`3.
`4.
`5.
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`i
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`6.
`7.
`8.
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`Fragrance Products Are Commodities ...................................... 40
`Fragrances are Nondurable Products ........................................ 40
`Industry Associations Provided Defendants Forums to
`Collude and Assisted Defendants in Carrying out Their
`Conspiracy ................................................................................ 40
`C. Defendants Coordinated Parallel Price Increases During the Class
`Period ................................................................................................... 48
`D. Defendants Monitored Their Conspiracy ............................................ 62
`E.
`Defendants’ Pretextual Reasons for Their Prices Increases ................ 63
`F.
`Defendants’ Coordinated Parallel Price Increases Substantially
`Improved Their Profitability ............................................................... 67
`G. Defendants Restrained and Allocated the Supply of Key
`Fragrance Ingredients .......................................................................... 71
`H. Government Authorities Conduct Dawn Raids on Defendants .......... 76
`DEFENDANTS’ FRAUDULENTLY CONCEALED THEIR CONSPIRACY .... 84
`CLASS ACTION ALLEGATIONS ........................................................................ 86
`INTERSTATE TRADE AND COMMERCE ......................................................... 90
`ANTITRUST INJURY ............................................................................................ 91
`CLAIM FOR RELIEF ............................................................................................. 92
`REQUEST FOR RELIEF ........................................................................................ 94
`JURY DEMAND ..................................................................................................... 96
`
`ii
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`Case 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA Document 107 Filed 02/05/24 Page 4 of 102 PageID: 727
`“Odors have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances,
`emotions, or will. The persuasive power of an odor cannot be fended off, it enters
`into us like breath into our lungs, it fills us up, imbues us totally. There is no
`remedy for it . . . He who ruled scent ruled the hearts of men.”1
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`Plaintiffs B & E Associates, Inc., Cospro Development Corp., Demeter F.L.,
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`
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`Inc., Hanna’s Candle Company, and Our Own Candle Company, Inc. (“Plaintiffs”),
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`individually and on behalf of all others similarly situated (the “Class,” as defined
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`below), upon personal knowledge as to the facts pertaining to themselves, and upon
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`information and belief as to all other matters, and based on the investigation of
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`counsel, brings this class action for damages, injunctive relief, and other relief
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`pursuant to the federal antitrust laws and demands a trial by jury on all matters so
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`triable.
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`NATURE OF THE ACTION
`This lawsuit arises from an unlawful conspiracy to fix, raise, or
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`1.
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`maintain the prices for fragrance ingredients and fragrance compounds (collectively,
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`“Fragrance Products” (further defined below)) by Defendants Firmenich
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`International SA, Givaudan SA, International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (“IFF”),
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`and Symrise AG, and certain entities owned or controlled by them, as described
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`below (collectively, “Defendants”) in violation of Sections 1 and 3 of the Sherman
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`Act (15 U.S.C. §§ 1, 3).
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`2.
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`Companies, such as Plaintiffs and the Class, add Fragrances Products
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`(scent) to consumer goods such as candles, soaps, lotions, cosmetics, perfumes,
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`detergents, fabric care, and household cleaners to make those products smell
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`1
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`pleasant. A product’s smell helps establish a positive olfactory (and emotional)
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`association with the product. Fragrance Products are therefore a key input in such
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`consumer goods.
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`3.
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`Defendants are the four largest producers of Fragrance Products,
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`controlling nearly two-thirds of the global and U.S. markets. Defendants acquire
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`raw materials and convert them into Fragrance Products, before selling them on to
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`companies, such as Plaintiffs and other Class members. Defendants’ sale of
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`Fragrance Products is a multi-billion dollar business in the United States.
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`4.
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`Beginning at least as early as January 1, 2018, Defendants entered into
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`an unlawful agreement to increase the prices of Fragrance Products charged to
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`Plaintiffs and the Class. Upon information and belief, Defendants’ conspiracy to fix
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`prices for Fragrance Products began in response to increased costs of the raw
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`materials needed to manufacture Fragrance Products, which threatened Defendants’
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`profitability. To protect their profits, Defendants conspired to restrain the supply,
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`coordinate the prices, and allocate the markets for Fragrance Products. Tellingly,
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`however, after raw materials prices began to subside, Defendants continued to
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`increase the prices of Fragrance Products in a coordinated fashion.
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`5.
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`Plaintiffs learned of Defendants conspiracy no earlier than March 7,
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`2023. On that date, the European Commission (“EC”) announced that it had carried
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`out dawn raids at several suppliers and an industry association in the Fragrance
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`2
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`Products industry in coordination with the Swiss Competition Commission
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`(“COMCO”), the U.S. Department of Justice Antitrust Division (“DOJ”), and the
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`U.K. Competition and Markets Authority (“CMA”).1
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`6.
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`The same day, CMA provided further insight into the dawn raids,
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`announcing that it “has reason to suspect anti-competitive behaviour [sic] has taken
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`place involving suppliers of Fragrance Products for use in the manufacture of
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`consumer products such as household and personal care products,” and named
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`Firmenich International SA, Givaudan SA, International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.,
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`and Symrise AG as the subjects of the investigation.2
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`7.
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`The next day, COMCO revealed that the dawn raids were based on
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`“indications that several undertakings active in the production of fragrances have
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`violated cartel law.”3 COMCO identified the same Defendants as targets of the dawn
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`raids and disclosed that “[t]here are suspicions that these undertakings have
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`1
`European Commission Press Release IP/23/1532, Antitrust: Commission
`Confirms Unannounced Inspections in the Fragrance Sector (Mar. 7, 2023),
`https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/ip_23_1532.
`2
`CMA Launches Investigation into Fragrances and Fragrances Ingredients,
`CMA COMPETITION & MARKETS AUTHORITY (last updated Mar. 8, 2023),
`https://www.gov.uk/government/news/cma-launches-investigation-into-fragrances-
`and-fragrance-ingredients.
`3
`The Swiss Competition Commission Press Release, Frank Stüssi & Andrea
`Graber Cardinaux, COMCO Investigates Possible Collusions in the Fragrance
`Market (Mar. 8, 2023), https://www.weko.admin.ch/weko/en/home/medien/press-
`releases/nsb-news.msg-id-93502.html.
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`3
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`coordinated their pricing policy, prohibited their competitors from supplying certain
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`customers and limited the production of certain fragrances.”4
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`8.
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`In a May 10, 2023 filing with the U.S. Securities and Exchange
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`Commission (“SEC”), IFF acknowledged the investigation and disclosed that it had
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`received a criminal grand jury subpoena from the DOJ,5 meaning the DOJ is
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`considering a criminal prosecution against IFF and/or its co-conspirators. According
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`to Section F.1 of Chapter 3 of the 2014 edition of the DOJ’s Antitrust Division
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`Manual, “staff should consider carefully the likelihood that, if a grand jury
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`investigation developed evidence confirming the alleged anticompetitive conduct,
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`the Division would proceed with a criminal prosecution.” Similarly, Firmenich also
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`disclosed that it received a subpoena from the DOJ.6
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`9.
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`On January 17, 2024, CMA revealed that it had extended its probe of
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`Givaudan, Firmenich, and IFF to include allegations that they engaged in further
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`anticompetitive behavior
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`in
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`the form of so-called no-poach agreements.
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`Specifically, CMA stated that the companies may have engaged in unlawful
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`4
`Id.
`5
`International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., Quarterly Report (Form 10-Q) (May
`10, 2023).
`(June 30, 2023), at 48,
`6
`Firmenich, Financial Statements 2023
`https://www.dsm-firmenich.com/content/dam/dsm-firmenich/corporate/documents/
`firmenich-sa-annual-report-fy2023.pdf.
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`4
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`coordination involving reciprocal arrangements relating to the hiring or recruitment
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`of certain staff involved in the supply of Fragrance Products.7
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`10. As a direct result of Defendants’ conspiracy, Plaintiffs directly
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`purchased Fragrance Products from one or more Defendants at artificially inflated
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`prices and were thereby injured in their business or property. Plaintiffs bring this
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`action on behalf of themselves and a Class of direct purchasers of Fragrance Products
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`during the period from January 1, 2018 until the effects of the conspiracy have
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`ceased (the “Class Period”) as defined in more detail below.
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`JURISDICTION AND VENUE
`11. Plaintiffs bring this class action lawsuit pursuant to Sections 4 and 16
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`of the Clayton Act (15 U.S.C. §§ 15 and 26), to recover damages suffered by the
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`Class and the costs of suit, including reasonable attorneys’ fees; to enjoin
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`Defendants’ anticompetitive conduct; and for such other relief as is afforded under
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`the antitrust laws of the United States for Defendants’ violations of Sections 1 and 3
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`of the Sherman Act (15 U.S.C. §§ 1, 3).
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`12. This Court has subject matter jurisdiction pursuant to 28 U.S.C. §§
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`1331, 1337, and Sections 4 and 16 of the Clayton Act (15 U.S.C. §§ 15(a), 26).
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`
`7
`Suspected anti-competitive conduct in relation to fragrances and fragrance
`ingredients (51257), CMA COMPETITION & MARKETS AUTHORITY (updated January
`17, 2024), https://www.gov.uk/cma-cases/suspected-anti-competitive-conduct-in-
`relation-to-fragrances-and-fragrance-ingredients-51257.
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`5
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`13. Venue is proper in this District pursuant to Sections 4, 12, and 16 of the
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`Clayton Act (28 U.S.C. §§ 15, 22, and 26), and pursuant to 28 U.S.C. § 1391(b), (c),
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`and (d), because, at all times relevant to the Complaint, one or more of the
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`Defendants resided, transacted business, was found, or had agents in this District.
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`PARTIES
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`Plaintiffs
`A.
`14. Plaintiff B & E Associates, Inc. (d/b/a Keystone Candle Company) is a
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`Pennsylvania corporation with its principal place of business located at 7241 Paxton
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`Street, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17111. During the Class Period, Plaintiff B & E
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`Associates, Inc. directly purchased Fragrance Products from one or more
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`Defendants.
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`15. Plaintiff Cospro Development Corp. is a Pennsylvania corporation that
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`manufacturers beauty products, hair-care products, and cosmetics. Cospro
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`Development Corp. is headquartered at 105 Washington Avenue, Reading,
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`Pennsylvania 19601. During the Class Period, Plaintiff Cospro Development Corp.
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`directly purchased Fragrance Products from one or more Defendants.
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`16. Plaintiff Demeter F.L., Inc. (d/b/a Demeter Fragrance Library) is a New
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`York corporation that designs and sells a library of fragrances. Demeter F.L., Inc.
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`is headquartered at 12 North Gate Road, Great Neck, New York 11023. During the
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`6
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`Class Period, Plaintiff Demeter F.L., Inc. directly purchased Fragrance Products
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`from one or more Defendants.
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`17. Plaintiff Hanna’s Candle Company is an Arkansas company located at
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`3655 South School Avenue, Fayetteville, Arkansas 72701. Hanna’s Candle
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`Company is one of the largest candle companies in the United States and
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`manufactures and sells candles, potpourri, air fresheners, and room sprays. During
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`the Class Period, Plaintiff Hanna’s Candle Company directly purchased Fragrance
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`Products from one or more Defendants.
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`18. Plaintiff Our Own Candle Company, Inc. is a Pennsylvania corporation
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`with its principal place of business located at 2779 North Road, Findley Lake, New
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`York 14736. Our Own Candle Company, Inc. is engaged in the business of the
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`manufacturing and sale of candles, soaps, fragrance oils, room sprays, aromatherapy,
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`and related products. During the Class Period, Plaintiff Our Own Candle Company,
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`Inc. directly purchased Fragrance Products from one or more Defendants.
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`19. As a direct result of Defendants’ conspiracy alleged in this Complaint,
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`each Plaintiff and the Class members suffered damages because they paid more for
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`Fragrance Products than they would have in the absence of Defendants’ conspiracy.
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`B.
`20.
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`Defendants
`IFF Defendant. Defendant International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.
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`(“IFF”) is a New York corporation that manufactures and sells flavors and
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`7
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`fragrances. IFF maintains its principal place of business at 521 West 57th Street,
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`New York, New York 10019. IFF is listed on the New York Stock Exchange under
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`the ticker symbol IFF. During the Class Period, IFF manufactured and/or sold
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`Fragrance Products to purchasers in the United States directly or through
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`predecessors, affiliates, or subsidiaries.
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`21. Givaudan Defendants.
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` Defendant Givaudan SA is a Swiss
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`corporation that manufactures and sells flavors and fragrances. Givaudan SA is
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`headquartered at Chemin de la Parfumerie 5, 1214 Vernier, Switzerland. Givaudan
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`SA is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under the ticker symbol GIVN. Givaudan
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`SA has extensive operations throughout the United States, either directly or through
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`its wholly-owned and controlled subsidiaries and affiliates. During the Class Period,
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`Givaudan SA manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to purchasers in the
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`United States and elsewhere, directly or through predecessors, affiliates, or
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`subsidiaries.
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`22. Defendant Givaudan Fragrances Corporation is a U.S. subsidiary of
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`Givaudan SA incorporated under the laws of Delaware. Givaudan Fragrances
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`Corporation maintains its principal place of business at 717 Ridgedale Avenue, East
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`Hanover, New Jersey 7936. During the Class Period, Givaudan Fragrances
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`Corporation manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to purchasers in the
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`United States directly or through predecessors, affiliates, or subsidiaries. Givaudan
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`8
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`
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`SA controls Givaudan Fragrances Corporation both generally and with respect to the
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`conduct of Givaudan Fragrances Corporation in furtherance of the unlawful acts
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`alleged in this Complaint.
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`23. Defendant Ungerer & Company, Inc. (“Ungerer”) is a Delaware
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`corporation with its principal place of business located at 4 Ungerer Way, Lincoln,
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`Park, New Jersey 07035. Ungerer and its related companies are U.S.-based
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`fragrance developers and suppliers that focus predominantly on natural ingredients
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`for fragrance and flavor creation, as well as for end customers of such specialties.8
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`Givaudan SA acquired Ungerer in 2020, and since then has operated it as wholly-
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`owned subsidiary.9 Since the acquisition, Givaudan SA has controlled Ungerer both
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`generally and with respect to the conduct of Ungerer in furtherance of the unlawful
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`acts alleged in this Complaint.
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`24. Defendant Custom Essence LLC (“Custom Essence”) is a New Jersey
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`corporation with its principal place of business located at 53 Veronica Ave.,
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`Somerset, New Jersey 00873. Custom Essence specializes in the formulation of
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`natural fragrance and creates perfumes for customers. Givaudan SA acquired
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`Custom Essence in 2021, and since then has operated it as a wholly-owned
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`8
`Givaudan completes acquisition of Ungerer, GIVAUDAN (Feb. 20, 2020),
`https://www.givaudan.com/media/media-releases/2020/givaudan-completes-
`acquisition-ungerer.
`9
`Id.
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`9
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`subsidiary. Since the acquisition, Givaudan SA has controlled Custom Essence both
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`generally and with respect to the conduct of Custom Essence in furtherance of the
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`unlawful acts alleged in this Complaint. Givaudan SA, Givaudan Fragrances
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`Corporation, Ungerer, and Custom Essence are collectively referred to as
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`“Givaudan.”
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`25. Firmenich Defendants. Defendant DSM-Firmenich AG is a Swiss
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`corporation that manufactures and sells flavors and fragrances. DSM-Firmenich AG
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`is headquartered at Wurmisweg 576 Kaiseraugst, AG 4303 Switzerland and is listed
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`on the Euronext Amsterdam stock exchange under the ticker symbol DSFIR. DSM-
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`Firmenich AG was created by the merger of DSM Group and Firmenich
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`International SA, which was completed on May 8, 2023. DSM-Firmenich AG has
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`extensive operations throughout the United States, either directly or through its
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`wholly-owned and controlled subsidiaries and affiliates. During the Class Period,
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`DSM-Firmenich AG manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to purchasers in
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`the United States and elsewhere, directly or through predecessors, affiliates, or
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`subsidiaries.
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`26. Defendant Firmenich International SA is a Swiss corporation that
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`manufactures and sells flavors and fragrances. Firmenich is headquartered at Rue
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`de la Bergère 7, 1242 Satigny, Switzerland. Prior to its merger with DSM Group on
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`May 8, 2023, Firmenich International SA had extensive operations throughout the
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`10
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`United States, either directly or through its wholly-owned and controlled
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`subsidiaries and affiliates. During the Class Period, Firmenich International SA
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`manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to purchasers in the United States and
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`elsewhere, directly or through predecessors, affiliates, or subsidiaries.
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`27. Defendant Firmenich Inc. is a U.S. subsidiary of DSM-Firmenich AG
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`incorporated under the laws of Delaware. Firmenich Inc. maintains its principal
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`place of business at 250 Plainsboro Road, Plainsboro, New Jersey 08536. During
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`the Class Period, Firmenich Inc. manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to
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`purchasers in the United States, directly or through predecessors, affiliates, or
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`subsidiaries. During the relevant period, Firmenich International SA and/or DSM-
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`Firmenich AG have controlled Firmenich Inc. both generally and with respect to the
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`conduct of Firmenich Inc. in furtherance of the unlawful acts alleged in this
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`Complaint.
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`28. Defendant Agilex Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. (“Agilex”) is a U.S.
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`subsidiary of DSM-Firmenich AG incorporated under the laws of Delaware. Agilex
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`maintains its principal place of business at 140 Centennial Avenue, Piscataway, New
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`Jersey 08854. During the Class Period, Agilex manufactured and/or sold Fragrance
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`Products to purchasers in the United States, directly or through predecessors,
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`affiliates, or subsidiaries. Firmenich International SA announced that it had
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`completed the acquisition of Agilex on July 11, 2017. On May 9, 2023, Agilex
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`11
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`announced that its new parent entity would be DSM-Firmenich AG. Since the
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`acquisition, Firmenich International SA and/or DSM-Firmenich AG have controlled
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`Agilex both generally and with respect to the conduct of Agilex in furtherance of the
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`unlawful acts alleged in this Complaint. DSM-Firmenich AG, Firmenich
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`International SA, Firmenich Inc., and Agilex are collectively referred to as
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`“Firmenich.”
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`29. Symrise Defendants. Defendant Symrise AG is a German company
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`that manufactures and sells flavors and fragrances. It was created in 2003 by the
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`merger of Bayer subsidiary Haarmann & Reimer and Dragoco, both of which were
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`based in Holzminden, Germany. Symrise AG maintains a principal place of business
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`at Mühlenfeldstraße 1, 37603 Holzminden, Germany. Symrise AG states that “Our
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`Corporate Center is located in Holzminden, Germany. Key corporate functions such
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`as governance and control, communications and administration are located here.”10
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`Symrise AG has extensive operations throughout the United States, either directly
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`or through its wholly-owned and controlled subsidiaries and affiliates. During the
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`Class Period, Symrise AG manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to
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`purchasers in the United States and elsewhere, directly or through predecessors,
`
`affiliates, or subsidiaries.
`
`
`https://www.symrise.com/our-
`Page,
`Locations
`10
`Symrise, Global
`company/global-locations/ (last visited Jan. 9, 2024).
`
`12
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`30. Defendant Symrise Inc. is a U.S. subsidiary of Symrise AG
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`incorporated under the laws of New Jersey. Symrise Inc. maintains its principal
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`place of business at 300 North Street, Teterboro, New Jersey 07608. During the
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`Class Period, Symrise Inc. manufactured and/or sold Fragrance Products to
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`purchasers in the United States, directly or through predecessors, affiliates, or
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`subsidiaries. Symrise AG controls Symrise Inc. both generally and with respect to
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`the conduct of Symrise Inc. in furtherance of the unlawful acts alleged in this
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`Complaint.
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`31. Defendant Symrise US LLC is a subsidiary of Symrise AG, and is
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`headquartered in Teterboro New Jersey, with offices located at 300 North Street,
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`Teterboro, New Jersey 07608. Symrise US LLC is a limited liability company
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`organized and existing under the laws of the State of Delaware. Symrise US LLC
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`transacts or has transacted business in this District, and is engaged in the
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`development, manufacture, and sale of flavors and fragrances. Symrise AG controls
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`Symrise US LLC both generally and with respect to the conduct of Symrise US LLC
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`in furtherance of the unlawful acts alleged in this Complaint. Symrise AG, Symrise
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`Inc., and Symrise US LLC are collectively referred to as “Symrise.”
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`32. Each of the entities within a corporate family carried out the business
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`of manufacturing, distributing, marketing, and/or selling Fragrance Products in
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`coordination with their parents, subsidiaries, siblings, and related entities.
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`13
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`Agents and Co-Conspirators
`C.
`33. The acts alleged against the Defendants in this Complaint were
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`authorized, ordered, or done by their officers, agents, employees, or representatives,
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`while actively engaged in the management and operation of Defendants’ businesses
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`or affairs.
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`34. Various persons and/or firms not named as Defendants herein may have
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`participated as co-conspirators in the violations alleged herein and may have
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`performed acts and made statements in furtherance thereof.
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`35. Each Defendant acted as the principal, agent, or joint venture of, or for,
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`other Defendants with respect to the acts, violations, and common course of conduct
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`alleged by Plaintiffs.
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`FACTUAL ALLEGATIONS
`The Fragrance Industry
`A.
`36. A product’s scent helps establish a positive and familiar olfactory
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`response to the product. Smells are also linked to a product’s functional use. For
`
`example, lemon or other citrus scents are often associated with cleanliness, and mint
`
`with freshness. Scents can also convey status; the smell of leather may signify
`
`luxury or richness. Research shows that most consumers “consider scent an essential
`
`14
`
`
`
`Case 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA Document 107 Filed 02/05/24 Page 18 of 102 PageID: 741
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`
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`and necessary component of everyday household products.”11 Indeed, the CEO of
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`IFF’s Scent division, Nicolas Mirzayantz, stated that “scent continues to be the #1
`
`attribute driving purchase intent and even more importantly, the purchase repeat
`
`factor.”12
`
`37. Consumer goods get their scents from fragrances. Broadly speaking, a
`
`fragrance is a chemical mixture that has a smell or odor.13 Fragrances are derived
`
`from ingredients (natural or synthetic) and/or compounds. The role of a fragrance
`
`is to impart a pleasant odor to the finished product and deliver a pleasant experience
`
`to the end user. Fragrances are also used to disguise disfavored smells in the product,
`
`such that even products labelled as “unscented” may contain fragrances to mask the
`
`unpleasant smell of other ingredients, without giving the product a distinct scent.
`
`38. Manufacturers of consumer goods, like Plaintiffs and the Class,
`
`generally do not produce their own fragrances. Instead, they purchase fragrance
`
`ingredients and fragrance compounds from fragrance manufacturers, principally
`
`
`11
`Rachel S. Herz et al., A Three-Factor Benefits Framework for Understanding
`Consumer Preference for Scented Household Products: Psychological Interactions
`and Implications for Future Development, Cogn. Research 7, 28 (April 1, 2022),
`https://cognitiveresearchjournal.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s41235-022-
`00378-6.
`12
`International Flavor & Fragrances Inc. Scent Learning Lab, Edited Transcript
`of conference call or presentation from April 5, 2021.
`13
`IFRA, What
`is a Fragrance?, https://ifrafragrance.org/fragrance-and-
`you/what-is-a-fragrance (last visited Jan. 9, 2024).
`
`15
`
`
`
`Case 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA Document 107 Filed 02/05/24 Page 19 of 102 PageID: 742
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`
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`Defendants, for incorporation into various consumer products. Defendants, in turn,
`
`source their raw materials further upstream.
`
`The Production of Fragrances
`1.
`39. The fragrance industry can be broken down into three segments. First,
`
`there are the upstream suppliers of the raw materials used in the production of
`
`fragrances. As described in greater detail below, these raw materials include both
`
`natural and synthetic materials. Next, there are the manufacturers of fragrances,
`
`including Defendants, who use the raw materials to create fragrance ingredients and,
`
`as described in greater detail below, blend those fragrance ingredients into fragrance
`
`compounds. Finally, the downstream part of the industry consists of the producers
`
`of various consumer products that embody the fragrance ingredients and
`
`compounds. As discussed in greater detail below, these products generally fall into
`
`four distinct categories – fine fragrances (perfumes and colognes); fabric care
`
`(laundry detergents, fabric softeners, and specialty laundry products); home care
`
`(household cleaners, dishwashing detergents, and air fresheners); and body care
`
`(personal wash, hair care, and toiletries products).14
`
`
`14
`International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., 2021 Annual Report (Form 10-K),
`at 4 (Feb. 28, 2022).
`
`16
`
`
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`Case 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA Document 107 Filed 02/05/24 Page 20 of 102 PageID: 743
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`
`
`40. The following chart from a report by the industry trade association
`
`International Fragrance Association illustrates the three parts of the market: 15
`
`
`
`Upstream Suppliers
`a.
`41. Starting in the upstream part of the industry, companies produce the
`
`
`
`raw materials for fragrances. These raw material derive from both natural and
`
`synthetic sources. Natural raw materials are extracted from natural sources, such as
`
`plants, trees, or animals, by physical or biotechnological procedures.
`
`42. Synthetic raw materials are created in a lab and manufactured on an
`
`industrial scale. More than 95% of the chemicals in synthetic fragrances are derived
`
`
`15
`The Value of Fragrance, A Socio-Economic Contribution Study for the Global
`Fragrance Industry, 11, IFRA (June 2019), https://ifrafragrance.org/docs/default-
`source/policy-documents/pwc-value-of-fragrance-report-2019.pdf?sfvrsn=b3d049c
`8_0#page=13.
`
`17
`
`
`
`Case 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA Document 107 Filed 02/05/24 Page 21 of 102 PageID: 744
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`
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`from petrochemicals, such as phthalates, synthetic musks, parabens, and benzene
`
`derivatives.16
`
`Fragrance Ingredient and Compound Production
`b.
`43. Defendants source natural and synthetic raw materials for their
`
`fragrance businesses. Within their business, Defendants make and sell both
`
`“fragrance ingredients” and “fragrance compounds” (collectively, “Fragrance
`
`Products”). Defendants thus occupy a critical point of the supply chain, producing
`
`fragrances that are essential to many consumer products.
`
`44. A fragrance ingredient is any basic substance used for its odor
`
`properties or malodor coverage as a component of a fragrance mixture, which can
`
`be natural or synthetic. Per Defendant IFF’s 2021 Annual Report, “[f]ragrance
`
`ingredients are natural and synthetic, and active and functional ingredients that are
`
`used internally and sold to third parties, including competitors, for use in the
`
`preparation of compounds.”17
`
`45. Using natural raw materials, fragrance manufacturers use various
`
`methods to extract the aromatics to create “natural” fragrance ingredients. The name
`
`for a specific natural fragrance ingredient stems from a combination of the raw
`
`
`(May 14, 2020),
`16
`Synthetic Fragrances, UP FRONT COSMETICS
`https://upfrontcosmetics.ca/blogs/be-upfront/synthetic-fragrances.