7/23/2015
`
`Frequently Asked Questions
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`
`Index
`
`What are synthetic diamonds?
`What are HPHT synthetic diamonds?
`What are CVD diamonds?
`What are beryllium-diffused sapphires?
`What is a SI3 clarity grade?
`What is GIA's role in the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme?
`How can I locate a qualified appraiser?
`Where can I find dealers or suppliers?
`Can I purchase a diamond price list?
`Do you have a list of auctioneers that buy or sell estate jewelry?
`Where are the majority of diamonds found in the world?
`Is your library open to the public?
`I found a clear, colorless stone that scratches glass. I think it might be a diamond, but how can I find out for sure?
`How can I tell moissanite apart from a diamond?
`What is fluorescence? Is it something I should be concerned about?
`What is an "Ideal" Cut?
`What are the 4Cs?
`What is the GIA Clarity Scale for diamonds?
`What is a Diamond Grading Report?
`What is the GIA Diamond Dossier®?
`What are Colored Diamonds?
`Why are Colored Diamonds gaining so much popularity?
`How are Fancies Color Graded?
`
`What are synthetic diamonds?
`
`Synthetic diamonds have essentially the same chemical composition and crystal structure as natural diamonds but they are grown
`in a laboratory. In the last 30 years, gem quality synthetic diamonds have been grown in Japan, South Africa, Russia, Ukraine, and
`the United States. Generally speaking, there are two methods for producing synthetic diamonds: high pressure/high temperature
`(HPHT) or Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD).
`
`Synthetic diamonds have been available to consumers since the mid-1980s. While they still represent only a small segment of the
`market, they are becoming more widespread and increasingly difficult to detect. GIA is at the forefront in meeting this challenge,
`giving a distinct report for synthetics so that there is no confusion in the marketplace. What are HPHT-treated diamonds?
`
`HPHT, which stands for high pressure/high temperature, is a laboratory process that can permanently alter the color of some
`diamonds. Scientists began to experiment with this technique in the 1990s. HPHT treatment can decolorize certain types of diamond
`or give others a variety of attractive colors such as pink, blue, green, or yellow.
`
`What are HPHT synthetic diamonds?
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`Synthetic diamonds grown using the high pressure/high temperature (HPHT) method have been produced for decades. This
`process uses equipment that replicates the intense heat and pressure that create natural diamonds deep inside the earth. HPHT
`synthetic diamonds have been produced in a variety of colors, including yellow, blue, green, pink, red, and purple, as well as
`colorless. Physically, optically, and chemically they are nearly identical to their natural counterparts, but these synthetics can be
`identified by a trained gemologist using standard gem-testing equipment.
`
`What are CVD diamonds?
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`Synthetic diamonds produced by the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process are grown at low pressures and relatively low
`temperatures. This growth technique can produce thin, brown to near-colorless synthetic diamond crystals that are suitable for
`faceting for jewelry purposes. Synthetic diamonds grown by this method are considered “purer” than those grown by the traditional
`HPHT technique, and therefore more difficult to detect.
`
`What are beryllium-diffused sapphires?
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`Diffusion is a treatment process that uses heat and chemicals to add an element from an external source into a gemstone to change
`its color. Even the most perfect crystal has places in its lattice where atoms are missing. These gaps are termed “vacancies.” In the
`case of corundum, which is made up of aluminum and oxygen atoms, the higher the temperature, the more vacancies there will be.
`The color change depends on the type of element that is diffused into the corundum, the stone’s inherent chemical composition, and
`the conditions under which the diffusion process takes place.
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`What is a SI3 clarity grade?
`
`GIA has never used this grade and has no plans to use it in the future. If the owner of a diamond has a report from a lab where the
`SI3 grade was assigned and would like to know how GIA would grade the stone, send the diamond to GIA’s laboratory for a diamond
`grading report. Please contact the laboratory offices to obtain information about fees and how to submit the diamond: GIA Gem
`Laboratory, Carlsbad, California, (800) 421-7250, ext. 7590, e-mail: gtravis@gia.edu; GIA Gem Laboratory, New York City: (212)
`221-5858, e-mail: cindy.ng@gia.edu.
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`
`What is GIA's role in the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme?
`
`In 2000, GIA began to work closely with the World Diamond Council as they led the diamond industry's efforts to find ways to stop
`the illegal flow of conflict diamonds into the international marketplace. GIA's work concentrated on research into diamond
`composition and origin, testifying on this topic before Congress and participating in a White House Conference on conflict diamonds.
`
`GIA has also been contacted over the years to discuss its research in public forums and the news media. As the work of the
`diamond industry - along with the United Nations, government and non-government organizations - moved away from the technical
`side and toward the process of certifying the diamond's path from mine to consumer, GIA's role subsided and became less visible.
`
`Although GIA is not directly involved, the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme is fully supported and its principles upheld. GIA's
`role is now largely behind-the-scenes, serving as an engaged observer of the issue and remaining supportive of the Kimberley
`Process.
`
`How can I locate a qualified appraiser?
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`A GIA Diamond Grading Report offers technical information on the dimensions, quality, and identifying characteristics of a loose
`diamond but does not provide an appraised value. This service is performed by an independent appraiser. An appraisal should
`contain a quality analysis, description, and valuation of the jewelry item. To locate an appraiser, check your local phone listings or
`contact an appraisal association.
`
`Where can I find dealers or suppliers?
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`
`GIA is a nonprofit institution dedicated to serving the jewelry industry through education and research, and must remain impartial by
`not recommending or endorsing dealers or suppliers. However, there are several independently published directories that contain
`this type of information. These directories are organized by the type of product (e.g. finished jewelry, loose stones, services, etc.),
`followed by a list of dealers under each category (e.g. emerald, ruby, etc.). The address information for each dealer is available
`alphabetically by company name in the back of the issue.
`
`Jewelers' Circular Keystone, a jewelry trade magazine known as JCK, publishes a directory issue each January that lists many
`wholesalers and dealers. Their website is www.jckgroup.com. To order the JCK directory issue, visit http://www.jckgroup.com or
`call (646) 746-6456.
`
`Lapidary Journal, a popular magazine for gem cutters, publishes an issue each May called the Annual Buyers' Directory. In this
`issue, they list products, services, and suppliers of gems and jewelry. Their website is http://www.lapidaryjournal.com. You can
`purchase the directory by visiting http://www.lapidaryjournal.com or call (610) 964-6300.
`
`Colored Stone magazine publishes a show guide in listing exhibitors for the Tucson gem shows each February. Visit
`http://www.colored-stone.com or http://www.tucsonshowguide.com, or call (610) 964-6300.
`
`Can I purchase a diamond price list?
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`GIA is not involved in pricing, but there are several independent companies that do publish wholesale price lists. These price lists are
`available to the jewelry trade only.
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`Do you have a list of auctioneers that buy or sell estate jewelry?
`
`This page provides a list of major auction firms.
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`Where are the majority of diamonds found in the world?
`2003 Diamond Production
`Countries
`Botswana
`Russia
`Canada
`
`Total Value:
`$2,521,000,000
`$1,650,000,000
`$1,235,000,000
`
`Total Carats:
`30,500,000
`33,000,000
`11,200,000
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`South Africa
`Angola
`D.R. Congo
`Australia
`Nambia
`Other Producers
`World Total
`
`12,700,000
`5,700,000
`25,000,000
`30,900,000
`1,500,000
`4,500,000
`155,000,000
`
`$1,063,000,000
`$900,000,000
`$600,000,000
`$450,000,000
`$450,000,000
`$371,000,000
`$9,240,000,000
`
`Diamond production figures can be calculated by total carat weight or total value of the diamonds mined.
`
`Is your library open to the public?
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`
`Any person or company can contact the library for quick reference information either by e-mail (library@gia.edu), traditional
`correspondence, fax (760) 603-4256, or you can come to the library and do your own research in the library’s study areas. To
`contact the library by phone, please use the following numbers: (800) 421-7250 ext. 4046 or 4068, (760) 603-4046, (760) 603-4068.
`These extensions are answered Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m., Pacific Time.
`
`You will be given detailed citations and, if possible, contact information in order to obtain the magazine issue, journal issue, or book
`you request. No interlibrary loan service is provided except to the library’s own employees. Due to copyright restrictions, GIA does
`not own the copyright to the majority of the information that the library carries and cannot mail photocopies.
`
`If there is a reference you need in GIA’s quarterly journal, Gems & Gemology, the subscriptions department will send you the issue
`or fax a copy of the article for a fee (the articles are not available electronically). Until you know exactly which issue or article you
`need, it's best to start your search with the library.
`
`Only GIA employees and students attending classes at the Carlsbad campus can check-out materials from the library. If you attend
`extension classes on GIA’s Carlsbad campus, you will have limited check-out privileges for the time that you are enrolled. All other
`customers, including Distance Education students, may view the materials in the library's study areas as long as a current photo ID
`is presented. The GIA library is a closed-stack library which means all non-GIA employees are served from the front counter.
`Currently, the card catalog is not available on the Internet.
`
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`
`I found a clear, colorless stone that scratches glass. I think it might be a
`diamond, but how can I find out for sure?
`
`The stone you found could be a number of things. Many minerals form as colorless crystals. Nor is the scratch test sufficient proof
`that the stone is a diamond. Anything that has a hardness equal to or higher than glass, which ranges from 5 to 6 on the Mohs
`hardness scale, can scratch glass. Additional gemological tests need to be performed to provide a positive identification.
`
`The GIA laboratory offers a range of gem identification services. Call (800) 421-7250, ext. 7590, for information on submitting a
`stone. You can also have a gemologist in your area help you identify the stone. To find a GIA graduate gemologist, search the GIA
`Alumni Directory online or check your local yellow pages for any jewelers in your area that advertise that they have a gemologist on
`staff. Also, any jeweler that belongs to the American Gem Society (AGS) will have a trained gemologist on staff.
`
`How can I tell moissanite apart from a diamond?
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`Synthetic moissanite is a diamond stimulant with properties are much different from those of diamond. An experienced gemologist
`will be able to distinguish between the two. If there is any doubt, the stone can be sent to a qualified independent laboratory for
`identification.
`
`Synthetic moissanite has a lower specific gravity than diamond and will float in methylene iodide. Under magnification, look for the
`following characteristics: doubling in appearance of facet junctions and inclusions of whitish or reflective needles.
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`What is fluorescence? Is it something I should be concerned about?
`
`Fluorescence is visible light that is emitted after a gem is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This phenomenon occurs in some
`diamonds and other gemstones. The fluorescence that occurs naturally in a diamond arises from submicroscopic structures within
`the diamond when it is exposed to UV light.
`
`On GIA’s diamond grading reports, the strength of the fluorescence is noted as none, faint, medium, strong, or very strong.
`Beginning with medium, the color of the fluorescence will be noted (blue, yellow, green, etc.). If fluorescence is faint, the report will
`not indicate the color. Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds.
`
`Some jewelers consider fluorescence an undesirable characteristic. However, GIA's research indicated that fluorescence can have
`a positive effect by making a diamond appear whiter.
`
`Some treatments can alter the fluorescence of a diamond. For more information on this, please follow the links on GIA’s HPHT
`treatment page.
`
`What is an "Ideal" Cut?
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`There was a time when GIA courses promoted the concept of "ideal” proportions. Yet subsequent technological advances have
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`allowed more exact testing of cut diamonds in the area of brilliance and "fire." These studies showed that in reality there is a wide
`range of proportion parameters that yield an attractive, appealing diamond. This change in thinking also takes into consideration that
`people have different tastes and preferences; if shown a number of diamonds cut with various proportion combinations that display
`high degrees of brilliancy and fire, they will have varying opinions on which is the most beautiful. The term "ideal" suggests a single
`set of exact proportions, which is unrealistic. Therefore, "ideal cut" is not an authoritative term.
`
`On the GIA website, in the GIA Research section, you will find a series of short articles titled "GIA on Diamond Cut." These articles
`explain the basis of the cut research and discuss key issues in the evaluation of proportions for round brilliant cut diamonds.
`
`GIA’s cut grading system for round brilliant diamonds was incorporated into GIA's curriculum and laboratory grading services in
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`2005.
`
`What are the 4Cs?
`
`Carat Weight
`Color
`Clarity
`Cut
`
`The Four C’s—Carat Weight, Color, Clarity, and Cut —are the essential characteristics of diamond quality. GIA developed the Four
`C’s during the mid-twentieth century.
`
`Carat Weight: The metric carat, which equals 0.200 grams, is the standard unit of weight for diamonds and all other gems besides
`pearls. If other factors are equal, a stone that weighs more will be more valuable.
`
`Color: Grading color in the normal range involves deciding how closely a stone's bodycolor approaches colorlessness. Most
`diamonds have at least a trace of yellow or brown. With the exception of some fancy–color diamonds—ones that are naturally blue,
`pink, purple, or red, for instance—the colorless grade is the most valuable. Click here for more information on Color Grading.
`
`Clarity: Clarity is the measure of a diamond’s internal inclusions external blemishes. The size, number, position, nature, and color or
`relief of these characteristics determines the clarity grade. The GIA Clarity Scale ranges from Flawless to Imperfect. Very few
`diamonds are Flawless, showing no inclusions or blemishes when examined by a skilled grader under 10× magnification. If all other
`factors are equal, Flawless stones are the most valuable. Click here for more information on Clarity Grading.
`
`Cut: The proportions and finish of a polished diamond are its cut, or “make.” (Cut can also mean the diamond’s shape, as in an
`emerald cut or a marquise cut.) Proportions are the size and angle relationships between the facets and different parts of the stone.
`Finish includes polish and details of facet shape and placement. Cut affects both the weight yield from rough and the optical
`efficiency of the polished stone; the more successful the cutter is in balancing these considerations, the more valuable the stone will
`be.
`
`What is the GIA Clarity Scale for diamonds?
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`Diamonds have internal features, called inclusions, and surface irregularities, called blemishes. Together, these are a diamond’s
`clarity characteristics. A clarity grade is determined by the relative absence of clarity characteristics.
`
`Flawless (FL): no blemishes or inclusions when examined by a skilled grader under 10× magnification.
`
`Internally Flawless (IF): no inclusions when examined by a skilled grader, and only insignificant blemishes under 10×.
`
`Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): contain minute inclusions that are difficult for even a skilled grader to locate under
`10×. VVS1: extremely difficult to see, visible only from the pavilion or small and shallow enough to be removed by minor repolishing.
`VVS2: very difficult to see.
`
`Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2): contain minor inclusions ranging from difficult (VS1) to somewhat easy (VS2) for a trained
`grader to see under 10×.
`
`Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2): contain noticeable inclusions that are easy (SI1) or very easy (SI2) to see under 10×. In some SI
`diamonds, inclusions can be seen with the unaided eye.
`
`Included (I1, I2, I3): contain inclusions that are obvious to a trained grader under 10×, can often be easily seen face-up with the
`unaided eye, potentially affect the stone's durability, or are so numerous they affect transparency and brilliance.
`
`What is a Diamond Grading Report?
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`In 1955, GIA revolutionized the industry with its Diamond Grading Report. Based on the 4Cs and GIA’s International Diamond
`Grading System™, the report provides a comprehensive analysis of quality and authenticity for diamonds in the D-to-Z color range.
`It contains information on shape and cutting style, measurements and weight, proportions and finish, as well as grades for clarity,
`color, and cut. The GIA Diamond Grading Report has earned a reputation for unrivaled accuracy and integrity.
`
`For stones between 0.18 and 1.99 carats, GIA offers the GIA Diamond Dossier®. It contains the same information found on the
`traditional report in a more compact format. As an added security measure, the GIA Diamond Dossier® includes a laser inscription
`of the identification number.
`
`GIA’s laser inscription service can also be used for personal messages and anniversary dates. Visible with 10x magnification, a
`laser inscription can be placed on the girdle of a diamond as small as 0.18 carats. The procedure causes no damage and does not
`affect the stone’s color or clarity.
`
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`What is the GIA Diamond Dossier®?
`
`The GIA Diamond Dossier, introduced in 1998, is a grading report for loose diamonds between 0.15 and 1.99 carats. It offers the
`same type of information as GIA’s traditional grading reports, only in a smaller format. The service also includes a laser-inscribed
`report number.
`
`What are Colored Diamonds?
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`While most diamonds occur in the colorless to light yellow range, some have a natural color that is deep and distinct. These are
`known as fancy-color diamonds. Unlike colorless and near-colorless diamonds, which are valued for their lack of color, fancies are
`valued for the strength of their color. Colored diamonds are a small but increasingly popular segment of the diamond market.
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`
`Why are Colored Diamonds gaining so much popularity?
`
`In the past two decades, colored diamonds have enjoyed greater popularity than ever before. There was a turning point in the 1970s
`when revolutionary new cutting styles emerged for fancy color diamonds. Rather than emphasizing brilliance and fire, the virtues
`sought in near-colorless diamonds, these cuts emphasize color intensity. As fancy color diamonds began to reach the market, the
`Argyle mine in Western Australia launched a marketing campaign that helped changed the public’s perception of these previously
`overlooked diamonds. The 1987 sale of the Hancock Red, at a record auction price of $926,000 per carat, was another milestone
`that nudged the popularity of fancy coloreds.
`
`How are Fancies Color Graded?
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`
`GIA’s system for color-grading colored diamonds was developed in the mid-1950s and revamped in the mid-1990s. The system
`expresses color using the attributes of hue (the characteristic color), tone (the color’s relative lightness or darkness), and saturation
`(the strength or weakness of the color). Using controlled viewing conditions and color comparators, the grader determines the
`stone’s color from one of 27 hues. The fancy grade describes the stone’s tone and saturation with romantic names like “Fancy
`Light,” “Fancy Intense,” and “Fancy Vivid.”
`
`Today, the GIA color grading system for colored diamonds is used worldwide. Many of the most famous colored diamonds, including
`the blue Hope, the Dresden Green, and the Hancock Red, have been examined by the GIA laboratory.
`
`GIA offers two types of grading reports for colored diamonds. The GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report contains the same
`comprehensive information as the GIA Diamond Grading Report. In addition, the GIA Colored Diamond Identification and Origin
`Report, known as the color-only report, gives a color grade and the nature of the color.
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