United States Patent (19)
`Nishida
`
`US005345638A
`Patent Number:
`Date of Patent:
`
`11
`45
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`5,345,638
`Sep. 13, 1994
`
`(54) PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A
`SHOE-SHAPEID PART FROMA WEB OF
`MATERAL AND RESULTING
`SHOE-SHAPEID PART
`75 Inventor: Mamoru Nishida, Taichung, Taiwan
`73) Assignee:
`Tretorn AB, Helsingborg, Sweden
`21 Appl. No.: 80,071
`(22
`Filed:
`Jun. 23, 1993
`
`63
`
`Related U.S. Application Data
`Continuation of Ser. No. 899,690, Jun. 17, 1992, aban
`doned.
`Foreign Application Priority Data
`30
`Jun. 17, 1991 JP
`Japan .................................... 4.1991
`51) Int. Cl. ............................................... A43D 8/00
`52 U.S. Cl. ..................
`.............. 12/146 C; 36/45
`58) Field of Search ......................... 36/45, 47, 48,49;
`12/142 G, 146 C
`
`(56)
`
`References Cited
`U.S. PATENT DOCUMENTS
`217,467 7/1879 Lee .......................................... 36/47
`336,214 2/1886 Cosart ................................. 36/47 X
`336,913 3/1886 Graff................................... 36/48 X
`505,298 9/1893 Scarinci .................................. 36/48
`511,942 l/1894 Glanville ................................. 36/43
`761,520 5/1904 Matthew ........................... 12/146 C
`1,021,819 4/1912 Brihaye ................................... 36/45
`1,710,043 4/1929 Campbell ...
`... 12/146 CX
`1,956,969 5/1934 Ayers .................................. 36/45 X
`2,001,962 5/1935 Kantrow............................. 36/45 X
`2,076,285 4/1937 Wiggin ............................... 36/48 X
`2,300,155 10/1942 Heintz ................................. 36/45 X
`3,114,213 12/1963 Bowers ............................... 36/49 X
`7
`26
`27
`
`
`
`
`
`FOREIGN PATENT DOCUMENTS
`1674135 12/1953 Fed. Rep. of Germany .
`0021947 7/1900 France .................................... 36/47
`627878 5/1930 France .
`858875 12/1940 France .
`862088 2/1941 France .
`1024102 3/1953 France .................................... 36/48
`1028693 5/1953 France ...
`537540 12/1955 Italy ........................................ 36/48
`6400090 7/1965 Netherlands .
`8400651 2/1984 Netherlands .
`0.016092 of 1894 United Kingdom .................... 36/47
`410311 5/1934 United Kingdom .
`1539886 2/1979 United Kingdom .................... 36/49
`Primary Examiner-Paul T. Sewell
`Assistant Examiner-Ted Kavanaugh
`Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Sixbey, Friedman, Leedom &
`Ferguson
`ABSTRACT
`57)
`For the production of a shoe upper by cutting out of the
`shoe upper in the form of a layout from a web of mate
`rial, shaping of the shoe upper with connection of mate
`rial parts of the layout with formation of seams, a pro
`cess is used by which such shoe uppers can be produced
`in a timesaving and efficient manner despite the many
`individual parts present or to be made visible. For this
`purpose, a web of material (1) is used to produce layouts
`(2) by different production measures, such as different
`styles, yarn material, color, material thickness, single
`layer or multilayer type of material or the like, at the
`same time with the production of web of material (1),
`and with a sole part attached to the layout. The layout
`is cut from the web as a unit with the sole part and
`processed into a shoe part having an upper and sole
`part.
`
`20 Claims, 4 Drawing Sheets
`1.
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`2 is a
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`U.S. Patent
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`Sep. 13, 1994
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`Sheet 1 of 4
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`Asyas
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`S. XX
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`C S XXX2-2 5%
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`Ne1
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`U.S. Patent
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`5,345,638
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`11 12 13 31
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`U.S. Patent
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`Sep. 13, 1994
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`Sheet 3 of 4
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`O S& O
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`U.S. Patent
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`Sep. 13, 1994
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`Sheet 4 of 4
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`3.
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`1.
`
`PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A SHOE-SHAPED
`PART FROMA WEB OF MATERAL AND
`RESULTING SHOE-SHAPEID PART
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`O
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`5,345,638
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`the layouts and the sole parts assigned to one another
`are not completely separated from one another when
`cut out of the web of material, and remain connected
`with one another, as a cut-out unit, by corresponding
`material sections;
`from the cut-out units, each of which has a layout
`with an associated sole part, first the layout is connected
`on the provided seams to a shoe upper, and then, the
`sole part is stitched or basted to the free outside edge of
`the corresponding layout.
`By the process according to the invention, only just
`those parts of the web of material are produced in the
`necessary quality, thickness, multilayers or the like
`which correspond to the pattern or to an area of a pat
`tern of the shoe upper or the related sole part. The
`remaining area of the web of material in contrast can
`consist of a simple, lightweight or inexpensive material
`quality, which holds together only the patterns or areas
`of such patterns in the web of material after their com
`pletion. The cutting waste accumulating with cutting
`out therefore represents a simple, lightweight and inex
`pensive material. In contrast, with the known material
`that has crosswise strips, the entire cutting waste, for
`example, consists of an expensive tubular material, mul
`tilayer material or the like.
`It is of further advantage in the process according to
`the present invention that the individual patterns or
`partial patterns already can be produced directly in the
`production of the web of material in the desired shoe
`size, by which the cutting waste can be still further
`limited, since the individual patterns or partial patterns
`in the provided size can directly adjoin one another.
`Nevertheless, it is possible to configure the individual
`patterns or partial patterns soft, stiff, elastic, colored
`differently or the like, corresponding to the later stress
`ing or desired shaping. Only inside and/or outside stiff
`ening elements, such as inside and/or outside toe caps,
`heel counters or the like have to be applied later on.
`With the use of program-controlled web of material
`production devices, after a one-time creation of the
`program, the size of the layout corresponding to the
`shoe size, the woven or knitted type of individual areas
`or contours, the type of fiber or yarn and/or the color
`can be selected almost at will. Therefore, only a small
`number of individual parts have to be produced sepa
`rately and applied to the upper later.
`These and other objects, features and advantages of
`the invention will be apparent from the following de
`tailed description when viewed in conjunction with the
`accompanying drawings which show, for purposes of
`illustration, only several embodiments in accordance
`with the present invention.
`BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
`FIG. 1 is a top view of a section of a web of material
`with a layout for a shoe upper worked in during its
`production;
`FIG. 2 is a section of a web of material with a plural
`ity of layouts for different shoe uppers;
`FIG. 3 is a side view of a shoe with an upper formed
`of a layout produced from a web of material according
`to FIGS. 1 and 2;
`FIG. 4 shows a section of a web of material with a
`layout having sole part sections provided on both sides
`as well as a tongue; and
`FIG. 5 shows a section of a web of material with a
`layout which has a forefoot sole part section on one side
`
`This application is a continuation of Ser. No.
`07/899,690, filed Jun. 17, 1993, now abandoned.
`BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
`This invention relates to a process for the production
`of a shoe shaped part using a web of material with a
`plurality of patterns in the form of the layout of a shoe
`upper, cutting out these layouts from the web of mate
`rial and stitching the parts of the shoe upper to a top
`part, and fastening the related part of the sole to the
`15
`edge area of the cut-open outside edge of the assigned
`layout and to a shoe shaped part produced according to
`this process.
`A process according to this general type is known
`from German Patent No. 627 878. There, a web of 20
`material is produced so that it successively has three
`crosswise strips of different weaves. Patterns in the
`form of the U-shaped layout of a shoe upper are printed
`on these crosswise strips. The crosswise strips are pro
`25
`duced so that the first strip is suitable for the counter
`stiffener, the second strip for the vamp and the side
`portions, and the third strip for the toe cap. Conse
`quently, the second crosswise strip is elastic and multi
`layered, and the two other crosswise strips are pro
`30
`duced in a nonelastic, hard-wearing way. Stiffening
`threads can also be worked in, and the crosswise strip
`for the counter-stiffener can be produced as a tubular
`material into which a heel counter can be inserted. The
`U-shaped parts are cut out of the material, stitched on
`35
`the open U-side, which forms the counter-stiffener, and
`then a sole applied in a way not described in detail.
`SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
`In view of the above, the primary object of this in
`vention is to further develop this previously known
`process so that a shoe upper, in many cases, can be
`configured together with the related sole part, for ex
`ample, can be produced with strip-like markings, deco
`rations or the like, and so that, in this case, the produc
`45
`tion of such a shoe upper is nevertheless possible in an
`efficient and economical way.
`This object is achieved by the following process
`steps:
`in the production of a web of material, both the pat
`50
`terns or partial patterns in the form of layouts of the
`shoe upper and the patterns or partial patterns in the
`form of a sole part, are produced by a fabric printing
`process (which is generally well known in the textile
`industry) on the web of material and/or by a textile
`production process inside the web of material;
`to each layout of the shoe upper there is directly
`assigned a sole part and is attached to the layout in the
`correct position of the shoe upper;
`in the production of the web of material, the layouts
`60
`or the areas in which the layouts are provided are pro
`duced in a woven and/or knitted type different from the
`sole parts or those areas in which these patterns are
`provided;
`those areas of the layouts and/or sole pans, which are
`exposed to the different stresses when wearing the shoe,
`are produced in the woven and/or knitted types corre
`spondingly matched to the stresses they will experience;
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`embroidered. Similarly, the lacing areas 23 and 24 can
`and a rear or heel part sole part section on the opposite
`be made dimensionally stable in corresponding man
`side.
`ners, especially if, for example, no additional trimmings,
`such as the lacing strips 25, shown in FIG. 3, are to be
`applied.
`Finally, in the embodiment according to FIGS. 1 and
`2, with layout 2 on the web of material 1, areas 26 and
`27 are produced in a configuration, color or style that is
`different from the other areas. A heel counter 28, repre
`sented in FIG. 3, is applied on areas 26, 27 after forma
`tion of the initially described heel seam.
`As can be seen, any number of layouts 2 in the most
`varied configurations and/or designs as well as of dif
`ferent sizes can be produced on a single web of material
`1. For this purpose, above all, the use of program-con
`trolled, particularly computer-controlled, production
`devices is advantageous, so that style, color, design, size
`or the like can be varied at will.
`According to an advantageous further development
`of the invention, an individual part 29 in the form of an
`insole can be co-produced on layout 2 of shoe upper 3.
`After being cut out, this individual part 29 remains
`connected with layout 2, and after or during the shaping
`and fixing of shoe upper 3 from layout 2, part 29 is
`folded into the plane of the shoe sole and is fastened to
`the lower edge zone of the shoe upper 3. This lower
`edge zone is defined in layout 2 by outside contours 30
`and 31, and the manner of its fastening can be, in a way
`known in the art, for example, by gluing, stitching,
`tacking or the like.
`In the production of web of material 1 or after its
`production, and optionally after cutting out of layout(s)
`2, layout(s) 2 can be provided with an embroidery,
`especially with an English embroidery (i.e., the type of
`embroidery by which a hole pattern is welded and
`which is commonly used for the sewing of button
`holes), of a trademark or another mark or identification
`on suitable or preferred places.
`Finally, before or after cutting out of layout(s) 2, a
`tongue 32 (FIG. 3) is applied in the forefoot area. After
`the production of shoe upper 3, an insole and/or a mid
`sole, optionally, is additionally applied or molded on.
`Completed shoe upper 3 is then brought into a gluing,
`injection or casting mold, in which a midsole 33 and an
`outsole 34 are molded by known measures, as is repre
`Sented in FIG. 3.
`The advantages of the previously described process
`according to the invention can be seen especially in the
`fact that, with a fully developed loom, up to 7 different
`textile fibers or yarns, and the same number of colors,
`can be put in, especially woven in, the web of material
`in one operation. As already indicated, any sizes and
`different upper designs can be produced by computer
`controlled programs, starting from corresponding basic
`patterns. The completed shoe uppers produced from
`such webs of material are marked by an extremely low
`weight, for example, between 70 to 80 g in a shoe size of
`8. The costs for the production of such uppers are ex
`ceptionally low in comparison with previously known
`processes.
`In FIGS. 1 and 2, unfinished surface areas, which lie
`outside layouts 2 for shoe upper 3 or for tongue 40, are
`shown with position number 1.1.
`According to an advantageous further development
`of the invention, the sole part 29, which is represented
`in FIGS. 1 and 2 as an individual part, can be designed
`so as to be divided lengthwise, crosswise or obliquely
`into at least two. In such a case, at least one sole part
`
`DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE
`PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
`In FIGS. 1 and 2, a web of material is identified by 1,
`and is produced by a conventional textile process, tier
`example, by weaving and/or knitting and/or embroi
`dering. The web of material 1 can be provided with a
`single or with a plurality of layouts 2 of the shape of a
`shoe upper 3, as it is represented from the side, for
`example, in FIG. 3.
`The web of material has a backing 4 that can be a
`conventionally used material formed, for example, of a
`warp and filling or a knitted fabric. Layout 2 is divided
`into different individual parts or areas, which differ
`from one another, such as by being of another material
`style and/or by being of different fibers or yarns, for
`example, from wool, wool with metal yarns, silk, silk
`with metal yarns, wool with plastic fibers or the like
`and/or by being formed of different colors, such as
`from fibers or yarns of different colors, including those
`of metals, or by different color prints, and/or by being
`differently designed fiber extrudates or fiber extrudate
`compositions, such as twisted, processed parallel or the
`25
`like.
`The individual parts or areas of shoe upper 3 can be
`representations of those areas on which a trimming, for
`example, a part resistant to wear, is applied. For exam
`ple, areas 5 and 6 are provided for applying an inside or
`outside heel counter 9 (FIG. 3). After cutting outlayout
`2 from the web of material 1, the edges 7 and 8 are
`stitched together and a heel seam thus is formed. Then,
`heel counter 9, represented in FIG. 3, is applied, for
`example, glued and/or stitched, to adjacent areas 5 and
`35
`6.
`Correspondingly, the contours of edges 11 and 12 are
`stitched together in the form of shoe toe 10, and a seam
`is formed on the shoe toe. To reduce wear, a toe cap 15,
`represented in FIG. 3, can be applied, especially glued
`40
`and/or stitched, on the front area, adjacent to front
`edge 13 of toe area 14.
`Since, generally, toe area 14 is designed to be rela
`tively deformably soft or elastic, and optionally, also
`permeable to air, the web of material 1, in toe area 14,
`45
`according to the present invention, is correspondingly
`designed by suitable selection of the weave pattern, knit
`pattern and/or the material used, such as, for example,
`Silk or plastic. The type of production can, additionally,
`insure that the toe area 14 has a good air exchange
`50
`capability. For example, this can be achieved by a net
`like woven or knitted structure.
`The areas identified as positions 16 and 17 represent
`individual parts, which serve for identification pur
`poses, such as the “Formstrip” trademark of PUMA
`55
`AG Rudolf Dassler Sport illustrated in this case. Of
`course, other trademarks, identifications or patterning
`may be incorporated instead.
`Areas 20, 21 and 22, identified in FIG. 3, running
`from instep area 18 to heel area 19, cannot only be
`configured in the form of pull straps but also can be
`produced especially tension-proof. In the production of
`web of material 1, suitable measures can be used to
`make these upper areas so as to achieve the desired
`effects; for example, in this case, especially tension
`65
`proof fibers or yarns can be used. Optionally, in this
`case, the material can be woven or knitted in two or
`more layers or can be especially thick or additionally
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`section is provided on each outside contour 30, 31 of a
`weave or knit of individual areas or contours, the type
`layout 2.
`of fiber or yarn and/or the color.
`With the embodiment according to FIG.4, a sole part
`I claim:
`section 29.1 that extends over the entire length of the
`1. Process for the production of a plurality of shoe
`sole is provided on outside contour 31 in the approxi
`shaped parts using a web of material having a plurality
`mate form of a half of sole part 29, and a sole part sec
`of patterns in the form of a layout of a shoe upper
`tion 29.2 which forms the remainder of sole part 29 is
`thereon, comprising the following process steps:
`provided on the outside contour 30. Both sole part
`producing a web of material having an overall con
`sections 29.1 and 29.2 complement each other to com
`struction and having at least portions of patterns
`plete sole part 29. In this case, their outside contours
`10
`thereon which are in the form of layouts of a shoe
`29.3 and 29.4 are connected with one another, for exam
`upper and a sole part, wherein in each layout the
`ple stitched and/or glued and/or fused or the like, pref
`shoe upper is directly associated with a sole part by
`erably by a longitudinal seam.
`the sole part being attached to the layout in a posi
`With the embodiment according to FIG. 5, a forefoot
`tion of the shoe upper corresponding to an in
`sole part section 29.5 is provided on outside contour 31
`tended location of the sole part relative to the shoe
`of layout 2 of shoe upper 3, and a heel sole part section
`upper in a finished shoe, wherein the layouts of the
`29.6 is provided on outside contour 30. Their outside
`shoe upper and sole parts are produced by modify
`contours 29.7 or 29.8 are later folded under so as to face
`ing the overall construction of the web of material
`the middle of shoe upper 2 and are connected with one
`in the locations of the layouts relative to that in
`another to, then, form the entire sole part 29. The sean
`20
`portions thereof where the layouts of the shoe
`resulting in this case runs crosswise, obliquely, or
`upper and the sole parts are not provided, using
`obliquely in approximately an S-shape or the like corre
`one of a different weaving and knitting type for the
`sponding to the configuration of outside contours 29.7
`layouts of the shoe upper than is used for produc
`or 29.8. The path of this seam is preferably selected so
`ing the sole parts, said weaving and knitting types
`that it cannot exert an unpleasant pressure on the sole of
`25
`being matched to differing requirements for materi
`the foot.
`als of the shoe upper and sole part of a shoe in
`Additionally, the tongue 40, for example, according
`relation to properties thereof including at least one
`to FIG.4, can be provided also in the course of produc
`of the properties of absorptivity, air permeability,
`ing the web of material 1 with different weave struc
`softness, extensibility, wear resistance and appear
`tures and/or weave patterns and/or embroideries or
`with one or with several prints or the like. On a web of
`ance;
`material 1, different tongues 40 can be produced corre
`cutting out the layouts from the web of material in a
`sponding to a shoe shape and/or a shoe size both in
`manner leaving the layouts of the shoe upper at
`shape, size, color or colors, patterns or the like. Prefera
`least partially connected to the sole parts directly
`bly, in each case, related tongues 40 are produced simul
`associated therewith as a cut-out unit; and
`35
`taneously with a layout 2 on same web of material 1.
`first stitching parts of the layout of the cut-out unit on
`For optimum surface use of web of mmaterial 1, a
`provided seams to form an upper of the shoe
`tongue 40 can be produced in the open space 41 located
`shaped part, and then fastening the associated sole
`between the two layout sections 42 and 43, which later
`part of the cut-out unit to an outside edge area of
`form the rear of foot or heel-pan shoe part.
`the associated layout by one of stitching and bast
`Preferably, each layout 2 has at least five, preferably
`1ng.
`more than ten, patterns and a tongue 40 has at least two,
`2. Process according to claim 1, further comprising
`preferably at least three patterns produced or appear
`the step of providing at least one of the layouts of the
`ing, which are different from one another in each case.
`shoe upper and the sole parts with stiffening means in
`In an advantageous further embodiment of the inven
`45
`areas thereof.
`tion, the web of material 1 is produced so that its surface
`3. Process according to claim 1, wherein, during said
`areas 1.1, in which no layout(s) 2 or tongue(s) 40 are
`producing step, the sole part is formed of sole part sec
`provided, consist of a lightweight material quality that
`tions which extend over the entire length of an insole to
`is as simple and economical as possible. For example,
`be formed and which are connected to outside contours
`these surface areas 1.1 can be produced like a gauze or
`50
`of the layout of the shoe upper; and wherein outside
`with low to very low warp and/or filling gauge and/or,
`edge portions of the sole part sections are fastened to
`for example, by being thin-spun or the like. Thus, an
`gether, by producing a lengthwise seam, to form the
`especially efficient production of shoe shaped parts,
`sole part
`such as shoe uppers is assured in connection with soles
`4. Process according to claim 1, wherein, during said
`and/or tongues or the like.
`55
`producing step, the sole part is formed of forefoot sole
`Preferably, areas of layout(s) 2, sole parts 29, espe
`part section on one outside contour of the layout of the
`cially of sole part sections 29.1 and 29.2 or 29.5 and 29.6,
`shoe upper and of a heel sole part section on another
`can comprise a textile portion of material which can
`outside contour; and wherein outside edge portions of
`soak up moisture well. Preferably, cotton is used for this
`the sole part sections are fastened together, by produc
`purpose. The portion of the absorbent material is at least
`60
`ing one of a crosswise, obliquely, and S-shaped seam, to
`about 25% of the entire material. Depending on the
`form the sole part.
`application, this portion can be increased up to 100%.
`5. Process according to claim 1, comprising the fur
`As already indicated, the webs of material being used
`ther step of applying an embroidery at least to the lay
`can be produced by program-controlled web material
`production devices whose programs can be matched
`OutS.
`65
`almost at will according to the corresponding basic
`6. Process according to claim 5, wherein the embroi
`setting with deviations in the size of the layouts of the
`dery is produced at least partially as English embroi
`dery.
`individual shoe uppers or with changes of the type of
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`14. Shoe shaped part according to claim 13, wherein
`7. Process according to claim 1, further comprising
`each tongue is produced having at least two patterns of
`the step of applying one of an insole and a midsole to the
`different types of production.
`sole part after forming of the shoe upper.
`15. Shoe shaped part according to claim 14, wherein
`8. Process according to claim 1, further comprising
`the sole part has a textile portion made of a material
`the step applying a tongue to the layout by at least one
`with good moisture-absorbing properties.
`of stitching, gluing and lasting.
`16. Shoe shaped part according to claim 15, wherein
`9. Process according to claim 8, wherein tongues are
`the material with good moisture-absorbing properties is
`produced on a web of material of at least one of differ
`ent patterns, different types of textiles, colors, and pres
`COtton.
`17. Shoe shaped part according to claim 15, wherein
`SueS.
`the material with good moisture-absorbing properties
`10. Process according to claim 9, wherein said
`comprises at least about 25% of the entire material of
`tongues are produced on the same web of material as
`which the sole part is formed.
`the layouts and sole parts.
`18. Shoe shaped part produced by the process of
`11. Process according to claim 10, wherein the
`claim 10, wherein each layout is produced having at
`tongues are made at least partially in an open space
`least five patterns of different types of production.
`between sections of the layout which later are formed
`19. Shoe shaped part according to claim 18, wherein
`into a heel part of the shoe upper.
`the sole part has a textile portion made of a material
`12. Process according to claim 10, wherein the
`with good moisture-absorbing properties.
`tongues are produced on a portion of said web of mate
`20. Process according to claim 9, wherein the tongues
`rial which is of at least one of a lower quality, density
`20
`are produced on a web of material which is of at least
`and weight relative to portions of the web of material
`one of a lower quality, density and weight relative to
`on which the layouts are produced.
`the web of material on which the layouts and sole parts
`13. Shoe shaped part produced by the process of
`are produced.
`claim 10, wherein each layout is produced having at
`least five patterns of different types of production.
`
`k
`
`k
`
`k
`
`is
`
`2k
`
`10
`
`15
`
`25
`
`30
`
`35
`
`45
`
`50
`
`55
`
`60
`
`65
`
`Skechers EX1022-p.9
`Skechers v Nike
`
`

`

`UNITED STATES PATENT AND TRADEMARK OFFICE
`CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION
`5,345,638
`PATENT NO. :
`September l3, 1994
`DATED
`Mamoru Nishida
`INVENTOR(S) :
`It is certified that error appears in the above-identified patent and that said Letters Patent is hereby
`corrected as shown below:
`
`Title page. Item No. 30), change "Japan" to - Germany -
`
`Signed and Sealed this
`Thirteenth Day of December, 1994
`
`Attesting Officer
`
`Commissioner of Patents and Trademarks
`
`BRUCELEMAN
`
`
`
`Skechers EX1022-p.10
`Skechers v Nike
`
`